東昇樓：威哥與馬灣涌村的共同記憶 

Tung Shing Restaurant:

The Hearth of Ma Wan Chung’s Soul  

撰 文 Author Cman and Silvia

🔊📖 聲音導賞

「東昇樓等！」這句話對於東涌居民來說，早已成為生活中的坐標。自1972年起，這家小酒家不僅是馬灣涌村的一道風景，更是連結著居民日常與東涌歷史的一部分。而經營這家餐廳的威哥村長，則以他堅毅的精神與創意的手法，將這個村落的傳統與時代變遷的軌跡深深刻畫在東涌的土地上。 

威哥一家本身並非經營餐廳，而是務農和養豬。1966年，一場突如其來的颱風摧毀了威哥一家在東涌的家園。威哥當時只有三歲，他記得洪水湧進屋內，父母將他抱到高架的床上避險。這次災難徹底改變了家庭的命運。威哥的父親果斷決定放棄務農和養豬，選擇更穩定的餐飲業，並在1972年，在一塊起初不過是人稱「爛地」的鹽鹼地，建立了東昇樓。

威哥的家人與東涌這個地方有著難以解釋的緣分。威哥一家來自中山，祖父早前已在東涌定居。可惜，由於戰火，祖父不得不返回內地，而威哥的父親在戰後才決定回港，原本的目標是定居於大澳，但因搭渡輪時提早下船，意外地在東涌登岸。1966年馬灣涌村發生洪水氾濫後，威哥的父親帶著全家短暫離開東涌求生。在這段時間裡，威哥和他的兄弟們因無法適應外地環境而健康狀況不佳。最終，威哥的父親決定返回東涌重新扎根。正是這次「錯誤的停留」，讓這一家人與東涌結下了不解之緣。

對土地的深厚連結，在東昇樓的食物中體現得淋漓盡致。餐廳的理念簡單而堅定——「取之於地，用之於地」。在東涌變成新市鎮前，幾乎所有食材都來自東涌本地：豬肉來自村內的農戶，海鮮源自東涌灣，甚至連稻米也來自東涌的稻田。除了少數如鴨和鵝等禽類必須外購，其餘幾乎全由本地供應，這份對土地資源的依賴與尊重，延續了家族扎根東涌的精神。馬灣涌村靠近東涌灣，過去是盛產海鮮的漁村。東昇樓創業初期便以村內的漁獲和農產品為主要食材來源，從魚類到豬肉，無一不散發著在地特色。藍花蟹、黃立䱽魚，甚至村民親手釣上的馬友魚，都成為餐桌上的經典佳餚。雖然如今東涌已無商業農場存在，威哥仍堅持售賣本地漁獲，珍惜能找到的一切。藍花蟹過去是漁民自己享用的美味，如今成為餐廳的招牌菜，肉質甜美多汁，令人垂涎。而其他本地魚類，也經常出現在東昇樓的菜單上，延續著東涌海域的滋味與記憶。

對於這些本地食材，威哥始終堅持最簡單的烹調方式，讓食材自然的味道成為主角。例如，他最鍾愛的做法便是清蒸，能最大程度保留海鮮的鮮甜。「原隻蒸蟹，最能吃出它的鮮美。」威哥說。這種尊重食材本味的態度，正是東昇樓的靈魂所在，也是它與東涌土地深厚連結的最佳寫照。

威哥接手東昇樓後，仍然不斷創造新菜式，為餐廳注入全新的活力。1990年代，他決心挑戰燒味製作，從一無所知開始學起，付出了無數努力，終於讓炭燒燒鵝和燒肉成為餐廳的招牌菜之一。他還創作了如上湯魚肚浸勝瓜等菜式，展現他不斷求新的精神。

東昇樓從創立以來，不僅是村民日常的聚腳點，還承載著婚宴、壽宴、喜慶筵席的記憶，逐漸成為馬灣涌村的地標之一。住在赤鱲角的村民回憶，當年馬會主席和港督衛奕信爵士都曾低調光臨東昇樓，與村民一同品嚐手釣海鮮。而這裡的美味也吸引了許多來自外地的工人和旅客。在青嶼幹線建成之前，屯門的建築工人常在午休時間搭船來東昇樓匆匆用餐，再返回工作地點。馬來西亞外勞會開工前在東昇樓吃早餐，收工時會回來吃晚飯。還有如今東涌新市鎮的建築工人、機場的上班族和登山客，無論是外賣還是堂食，東昇樓始終是他們的首選。

然而，隨著東涌新市鎮的發展，東昇樓的客源結構開始改變。威哥靈機一觸，推出了接駁巴士服務，方便居民與遊客從東涌站直達餐廳。他還開創了東昇樓深宵夜茶 – 他在2018年向當地年輕街坊MC建議，以共享廚房形式，在深宵時段經營。威哥形容，這不僅是為了提供晚間餐飲選擇，更是為社區注入活力的一種方式，為年輕人提供創業機會同時，也讓馬灣涌村成為東涌夜生活的中心。疫情前的夜茶一度營業至凌晨四點，吸引了眾多居民與遊客，使這裡變得熱鬧非凡。

但威哥還是個懷舊的人。他的餐廳不僅僅是一個用餐的地方，更像是一座收藏著歲月記憶的博物館。走進東昇樓，你會見到餐廳內部採用明亮的黃色牆壁，搭配玻璃窗，窗外是翠綠的村落景致。威哥熱愛收藏與再創造，將旅行中收集的旗幟、村內的舊藥材櫃與當地藝術家的畫作佈置於餐廳內。甚至鍋蓋與舊時衡量米和豬重量的工具，也在他的巧思下成為獨特的藝術裝置。

「佢中有我，我中有佢。」威哥用這句話總結他與東昇樓的關係。這家餐廳不僅是東涌的地標，也是村落的心臟。它見證了從風雨飄搖到繁榮發展的變遷，記錄了每一位村民、每一個來客的故事。而威哥的創新與堅持，不僅讓東昇樓成為東涌的地標，也為這片土地上的每個人寫下了屬於馬灣涌村的故事篇章。

For the residents of Tung Chung, the phrase “See you at Tung Shing Restaurant!” has long been a landmark in their daily lives. Since 1972, this humble eatery has been more than just a place to dine—it is a part of Ma Wan Chung Village’s landscape, a living connection between the villagers’ everyday routines and the rich history of Tung Chung. At the helm stands Mr Cheng (威哥), the village chief, whose resolute spirit and creative touch have deeply etched the village’s traditions and the tides of time into the soil of Tung Chung.

Mr Cheng’s family were not originally restaurateurs but farmers and pig breeders. In 1966, disaster struck when a sudden typhoon destroyed their home in Tung Chung. Mr Cheng was only three years old then, recalling the floodwaters rushing into their house as his parents lifted him onto a raised bed for safety. This calamity changed the family’s fate forever. Mr Cheng’s father decisively gave up farming and pig rearing, seeking steadier work in the food industry. In 1972, on a piece of salty, barren soil once scorned as “wasteland,” the family founded Tung Shing Restaurant.

The family’s roots in Tung Chung run deep but are marked by twists of fate. Originally from Zhongshan, Mr Cheng’s grandfather had settled in Tung Chung but had to return to mainland China because of war. After the war, Mr Cheng’s father aimed to settle in Tai O but accidentally disembarked at Tung Chung while taking a ferry. When floods hit Ma Wan Chung Village in 1966, Mr Cheng’s father temporarily left Tung Chung to survive elsewhere. Yet life was hard for Mr Cheng and his brothers away from home, and their health declined. Eventually, his father chose to return and root the family once again in Tung Chung. This “accidental landing” sealed their unbreakable bond with the village.

This profound connection to the land is reflected vividly in the dishes of Tung Shing Restaurant. The restaurant’s philosophy is simple but unwavering—“Take from the land, use on the land.” Before Tung Chung developed into a new town, almost all ingredients came from the local area: pork from village farmers, seafood from Tung Chung Bay, and even rice from local paddies. Except for a few poultry items like duck and goose bought from outside, nearly everything else was locally sourced. This reverence for local resources is the living spirit that keeps the family’s roots firmly planted in Tung Chung.

Ma Wan Chung, nestled beside Tung Chung Bay, was once a fishing village renowned for its seafood. In its early days, Tung Shing Restaurant sourced seafood and farm produce right from the village—blue crabs, yellow croakers, even village-caught horse mackerel adorned their tables. Though commercial farming has vanished from Tung Chung today, Mr Cheng remains steadfast in selling local catch, valuing every find. Blue crab, once a simple treat enjoyed by fisherman themselves, has blossomed into a signature dish at Tung Shing Restaurant, its sweet, succulent meat captivating generations. Local fish continue to grace the menu, preserving the taste and memories of Tung Chung’s waters.

Mr Cheng insists on the simplest cooking methods to highlight the natural flavour of these ingredients. His favourite is clear steaming, which best preserves the freshness of seafood. “Steaming a whole crab is the best way to savour its sweetness,” he says. This respect for the essence of the ingredients embodies the soul of Tung Shing Restaurant and reflects its deep ties with the land of Tung Chung.

After taking over Tung Shing Restaurant, Mr Cheng infused new life into the restaurant. In the 1990s, he taught himself the art of roasted meats from scratch, dedicating countless hours so that their charcoal-grilled roast goose and pork would become star dishes. He even invented new recipes like fish maw in superior broth with sponge gourd, showcasing his continual drive to innovate.

Since its founding, Tung Shing Restaurant has been more than a local dining spot—it holds the memories of weddings, birthdays, and festive gatherings, becoming a landmark of Ma Wan Chung Village. Villagers from nearby Chek Lap Kok recall when the Jockey Club Chairman and the Governor, Sir Murray MacLehose, quietly visited to share freshly caught seafood with the locals. The restaurant also drew workers and travellers: before the Tsing Ma Bridge was built, construction workers from Tuen Mun would take a boat to Tung Shing Restaurant at lunch, then return to work. Malaysian workers enjoyed breakfast there before starting shifts and returned for dinner after work. Today, builders from Tung Chung’s new town, airport staff, and hikers alike cherish Tung Shing Restaurant as their go-to for both takeaway and dining.

Yet as Tung Chung evolved into a new town, Tung Shing Restaurant’s clientele changed. Mr Cheng cleverly started a shuttle bus service to ferry residents and tourists directly from Tung Chung MTR station to the restaurant. He also launched a late-night tea service in 2018, collaborating with young local MC to operate a shared kitchen at night. This wasn’t just about food at odd hours; it was a way to boost community vibrancy and give young entrepreneurs a platform, turning Ma Wan Chung Village into the heart of Tung Chung’s nightlife. Before the pandemic, this night tea regularly ran until 4 a.m., attracting residents and visitors and filling the village with lively energy.

But Mr Cheng remains a nostalgic soul. His restaurant is not just a dining place but a living museum of memories, with bright yellow walls and large glass windows frame the lush village scenery outside. Mr Cheng loves collecting and reimagining—travel flags, old herbal cabinets from the village, paintings by local artists all decorate the space. Even old pot lids and vintage measuring tools once used for rice and pigs have been creatively transformed into unique art pieces.

“There’s me in it, and it’s in me,” Mr Cheng says, summarising his relationship with Tung Shing Restaurant. More than a restaurant, it is Tung Chung’s landmark and the village’s heartbeat. It has witnessed the journey from hardship to prosperity, recording every villager’s and visitor’s stories. Mr Cheng’s innovation and persistence have not only made Tung Shing Restaurant a symbol of Tung Chung, but also penned the story of Ma Wan Chung Village for all who call this land home.