馬灣涌：五個鮮為人知的古樸印記
Fading Echoes, Living Artifacts:
Five Hidden Gems of Ma Wan Chung
撰 文 Aris Mok
此「馬灣」非彼「馬灣」
務須釐清，馬灣涌並非荃灣毗鄰的馬灣，它實則位於大嶼山東涌之西。這片天地，珍貴地保留了棚屋、古廟、舊碼頭等歷史遺跡，成為香港少數仍能感受漁村生活氣息的角落，是遠離都市喧囂的一處隱世寶庫。
儘管位置隱蔽，造訪馬灣涌卻不費周章：乘港鐵至東涌站後，轉搭34號或38號大嶼山巴士至逸東邨下車，再朝海邊步行五分鐘即可抵達。未來，隨著港鐵東涌線的延伸，將有新的車站落成於附近，屆時往返這古樸村落將更為迅捷。
由居村四十年藝術家繪製的壁畫
除了古舊的漁村風貌，馬灣涌村內亦隱藏著一批色彩鮮明的壁畫。這些作品皆出自本地藝術家袁永強先生之手，他已在馬灣涌村居住了近四十年。
袁先生的創作緊扣馬灣涌的地域特色，其筆觸流露對家鄉深厚的情感。他曾提及，繪製壁畫的核心目的在於「以藝術保育記憶」，盼望透過視覺語言，留住村落獨特的文化印記，使在地故事得以傳承，避免被時光遺忘。
若有機會到訪，不妨漫步於村間小徑，細心尋覓袁永強先生的作品，探尋它們所訴說的村落故事。
東昇樓的獨特夜茶文化
馬灣涌坐擁一家馳名的食肆——東昇樓海鮮酒家。酒家日間以新鮮海鮮及燒味為主打，入夜後則供應夜茶，營業時間由清晨六時半延續至凌晨時分，是區內少數可在深夜品茗的去處。
夜茶提供的點心款式琳瑯滿目，包括蝦餃皇、蟹籽燒賣皇、上海小籠包等經典選擇，亦備有小炒和特色小菜，選擇豐裕且價格相宜。
對於渴望體驗大嶼山在地風情，並品嚐一頓地道港式夜茶的旅人而言，東昇樓絕對是一處值得專程造訪的場所。
東涌碩果僅存的單車店
馬灣涌深藏著東涌現存唯一的單車店——Sunny Bike Shop，開業至今已有22載。即使在共享單車普及的今日，它依然堅守如故。
店主Sunny是東涌的老居民，早年曾赴市區打拼，後為追求「心頭所好」而自學單車維修，返鄉創業。店舖採取「前舖後居」的結構，僅數步之遙便可往返；戶外棚架下，擺滿了他利用回收膠樽DIY而成的花盆，野生的牽牛花沿架攀爬，在上方街坊眼中形成一片紫色的花海。
從機場啟用之初的興盛，歷經共享單車和疫情的起伏，Sunny始終憑藉真誠的態度經營。下次前往東涌，不妨在此租輛單車，感受Sunny那份悠然自得而又專注的經營哲學。
馬灣涌紅樹林的彈塗魚生態
馬灣涌的紅樹林生態資源豐富，其中最生動的景象，莫過於彈塗魚活潑跳躍的身影。只要駐足片刻、定睛觀察，便能看見牠們灰褐色的小身軀，依靠肉質胸鰭爬行和跳躍，圓滾的眼睛不停地掃視四周。彈塗魚鑿洞棲身於泥中，以濕潤的皮膚輔助呼吸，以藻類和有機碎屑為食。
除了彈塗魚，灘上亦棲息著各類蟹和環節動物，彼此相互依存，共同構建起馬灣涌獨特的濕地生態網絡。此處不僅是自然教育的理想之地，亦是香港少數能近距離體驗原始濕地生命力的寶庫。
A Tale of Two “Ma Wans”
It is essential to clarify that Ma Wan Chung is not the Ma Wan located next to Tsuen Wan; it is situated to the west of Tung Chung on Lantau Island. This area preciously preserves historical relics such as stilt houses, ancient temples, and old piers. As one of the few remaining corners of Hong Kong where the authentic atmosphere of fishing village life still lingers, it is a hidden treasure trove far removed from the urban clamor.
Despite its secluded location, visiting Ma Wan Chung is straightforward: take the MTR to Tung Chung Station, then transfer to Lantau Bus route 34 or 38 and alight at Yat Tung Estate. From there, a five-minute walk toward the sea will lead you to the village. In the future, with the extension of the MTR Tung Chung Line, a new station will be completed nearby, making travel to and from this quaint village even swifter.
Murals Painted by a Forty-Year Resident Artist
Beyond the old fishing village scenery, Ma Wan Chung also hides a collection of vibrant murals. These works are all the handiwork of local artist Mr. Yuen Wing-keung, who has lived in Ma Wan Chung for nearly forty years.
Mr. Yuen’s creations are closely tied to the local characteristics of Ma Wan Chung, with every brushstroke revealing a deep affection for his hometown. He once mentioned that the core purpose of painting these murals is “conserving memory through art.” He hopes to use visual language to retain the unique cultural imprints of the village, ensuring that local stories are passed down and not forgotten by time.
If you have the chance to visit, take a stroll along the village paths to find Mr. Yuen’s works and explore the village stories they tell.
The Unique Late-Night Dim Sum Culture of Tung Shing Lau
Ma Wan Chung is home to a famous eatery—Tung Shing Lau Seafood Restaurant. During the day, the restaurant focuses on fresh seafood and roasted meats, but as night falls, it serves “late-night tea”. Operating from 6:30 AM until the early hours of the morning, it is one of the few places in the district where one can enjoy tea and dim sum late at night.
The late-night dim sum menu offers a dazzling array of choices, including classics like King Har Gow (shrimp dumplings), Crab Roe Siu Mai, and Shanghai Xiao Long Bao. Stir-fry dishes and specialty small plates are also available, providing abundant choices at affordable prices. For travelers eager to experience Lantau’s local flavor and taste authentic Hong Kong-style late-night dim sum, Tung Shing Lau is undoubtedly worth a special trip.
The Last Standing Bicycle Shop in Tung Chung
Tucked away in Ma Wan Chung is Tung Chung’s only remaining bicycle shop—Sunny Bike Shop, which has been in business for 22 years. Even in today’s era of ubiquitous bike-sharing, it stands firm.
The owner, Sunny, is a longtime resident of Tung Chung who worked in the city in his younger years before teaching himself bicycle repair to pursue his passion and returning home to start his business. The shop follows a “front-shop, back-home” structure, with only a few steps separating work from life. Under the outdoor trellises, the space is filled with flower pots he DIY-ed from recycled plastic bottles; wild morning glories climb the racks, creating a purple sea of flowers for the neighbours living above.
From the prosperity at the start of the airport’s operations to the ups and downs brought by bike-sharing and the pandemic, Sunny has always operated with a sincere attitude. The next time you visit Tung Chung, consider renting a bike here to experience Sunny’s leisurely yet focused business philosophy.
The Mudskipper Ecology of the Ma Wan Chung Mangroves
The mangrove ecology of Ma Wan Chung is rich in resources, with the most vivid sight being the lively, jumping mudskippers. If you stop for a moment and observe closely, you can see their small grayish-brown bodies crawling and jumping with their fleshy pectoral fins, their round eyes constantly scanning the surroundings. Mudskippers burrow into the mud to live, using their moist skin to assist in breathing and feeding on algae and organic debris.
In addition to mudskippers, various crabs and annelids inhabit the beach, coexisting to build the unique wetland ecological network of Ma Wan Chung. This area is not only an ideal place for nature education but also one of the few treasures in Hong Kong where one can experience the vitality of primitive wetlands up close.
